Sunday, October 17, 2010

5W5D “To lose balance sometimes for love is part of living a balanced life”

"People think a soul mate is your perfect fit, and that's what everyone wants. But a true soul mate is a mirror, the person who shows you everything that is holding you back, the person who brings you to your own attention so you can change your life.

A true soul mate is probably the most important person you'll ever meet, because they tear down your walls and smack you awake. But to live with a soul mate forever? Nah. Too painful. Soul mates, they come into your life just to reveal another layer of yourself to you, and then leave.

A soul mate’s purpose is to shake you up, tear apart your ego a little bit, show you your obstacles and addictions, break your heart open so new light can get in, make you so desperate and out of control that you have to transform your life, then introduce you to your spiritual master..."

I believe we all have many soul mates in our lives and in the end it all comes down to timing. We are like onions – all the soul mates come into our lives to peel off a layer of that onion, to show us something about ourselves, sometimes make us cry (no pun intended) and then leave. But then it just takes one soul mate to peel that last layer at the right time, revealing our core and leaving us exposed.

Today I went to see the movie Eat, Pray, Love with Julia Roberts. I read the book written by Elizabeth Gilbert a few months ago and am glad I finally had a chance to see the movie. The true story is about a married woman (Elizabeth Gilbert herself) who realizes how unhappy her marriage really is, and that her life needs to go in a different direction. After a painful divorce, she takes off on a round-the-world year long journey to "find herself" – enjoying all the pleasures in Italy, meditating in India, and finding balance in Bali.

She realizes that she is not happy where she is so she creates a plan and leaves to experience something new and to get a greater understanding of herself and the world. My generation seems to do this a lot. We go on long term travels and explorations, trying to “find” ourselves. Some would argue we are egotistical and selfish, that we think so highly of ourselves that there is a need to “find” ourselves in this world. Others would say that we have no direction and that the concept of family is lost in our generation because we are delaying this to “perfect” ourselves or to develop our careers or to explore the greatness that is out there in the world – instead of focusing on the importance of family.

I believe that traveling goes beyond this. And when I say traveling, I mean experiencing new cultures first hand by interacting with locals, living and breathing their lifestyle – not hopping around from site to site (though I do admit I am guilty of this sometimes). Traveling in this way is not a selfish act- it benefits all because it promotes peace and understanding through cultural exchanges. Learning about other cultures and sharing our culture with others can help us to avoid conflicts that might be caused by misunderstandings.

I have been in Egypt for so long because I fell in love with the people. There is a sense of liveliness and energy here that cannot be experienced in the USA. Of course the harassment, crowded streets, and polluted skies are some downsides, but one gets used to it. Every place I go, I make an effort to speak to people living there and participate in the lifestyle and living conditions of people as much as possible. Egypt is no exception. And there are plenty of times where the lifestyle was something I was not completely used to – even to a point of me hating it, but I left with a better understanding of why things are the way they are. I think this part of the world is incredibly misrepresented in the media. As a result, people’s perceptions of Islamic culture in the USA are greatly skewed.

I remember telling people I was going to Egypt, Morocco, and Tunisia and getting shocked faces and “why are you going there, it’s not safe” and “aren’t you scared” among other comments. But traveling here is safer than the streets of downtown LA at night. The number one thing that has gotten me far here is just simply being respectful and aware of local culture and customs. I think this goes for people traveling to the USA also. You may not like or agree with the way things are done, but if you make an effort to blend in and to live life as the locals, people will recognize this and it will go a long way.


Saturday, October 16, 2010

5W4D The Dreaded Mugamma

Every passport office has its problems and quirks but eventually it has all seemed to work out for me when I go to passport offices (hmm… thinking about mostly my work visas in Korea). Add those quirks and problems of a government building to the chaos of Egypt and you get the Mugamma.

The Mugamma is a 20 story tall building with narrow corridors, unlabeled doors, and countless amounts of people streaming in and out like ants in an ant hill. It is crammed with many government agencies in the same way that the Cairo metro is crammed with people (without AC I might add) at the peak of rush hour.

I had to face the dreaded Mugamma today. But I’m happy to say I won.

I have already overstayed my visa by 8 days, but in Egypt as an American I have 14 days after the visa date expiration to leave the country or to extend it. I chose to extend it and stay longer in Egypt.

Although the guide books give some clue as how to confront this beast, I would have still gotten lost within the labyrinth of doors, people, rooms, and papers. Luckily, Adel offered to go with me and helped me to navigate through the process of extended my visa. In theory it is relatively easy, but trying to find your way to the right windows and right people was quite difficult so being with Adel helped speed up the process. I will spare you the details.

We went at 8am. 3.5 hours time, 11.50 LE (approx 2 USD) less in my pocket, a falafel sandwich and Turkish coffee in my stomach and one application form and passport photo later, I am a proud owner of the extension of my Egypt Visa until March 2011.

I could have extended for another year pretty easily, but too bad I’m leaving October 25. A lot of tourists just renew their visa ever year and stay in Egypt for years on end. I thought about getting a multiple entry visa but decided to just pay 5 extra dollars at the airport when I return in Dec/Jan instead of waiting in more lines in the non-air-conditioned and crowded Mugamma.

The only words of advice I can offer are:

1. Patience is key here. Just know it will take time and yelling at the underpaid man or women sitting in the window will not make the process go faster. They don’t have computers here and do everything by hand – I’m even surprised they are able to get it to you back that day. Of course, going right when it opens, and on a Saturday, helps quite a bit.

2. Look carefully at the person in the window – this will tell you how long it will take and then you can decide if you want to stand in that “line”. Or just push yourself to the front of that line and smile. Well actually there aren’t really any lines, just crowds of people. And by the time I came back to pick up my passport, it was massive crowds of people.

3. Smile. Get the trend? I just smiled and stayed calm the whole process in the Mugamma and I honestly think it helped to “speed up” my process. Good luck!

*If you are reading this and want information on exactly where/how to get the extension feel free to send me a message and I will send you detailed information on windows to go to.


Friday, October 15, 2010

5W3D Moving Forward

The highlight of this week was Azhar Park, which I describe as an oasis in a city of chaos. This park is listed as one of the world’s sixty great public spaces by the Project for Public Spaces organization. It was a gift to Cairo from the Aga Khan and cost over $30 million USD. It was a very beautiful area that included and incorporated the old 12th C. Ayyubid wall with historic building rehabilitations.

It reminds me slightly of New York’s central park, in that it is a green space inserted into the city as opposed to a green space that is created with the city. But I think Azhar Park is a more “quasi public space” since there is a fee to enter Azhar Park, keeping out vagrants and the like. I can understand this since there needs to be regular upkeep to keep it looking the way it is. Regardless, it works and is a great area to come to in order to get away from the chaos in Cairo.


View of the Northern Cemetery from the path to the park

The great thing about long term traveling is that you don’t feel a pressure or need to cram all sights and visit the city all at once. This week I’ve been spending time recuperating from the heat and sights of Upper Egypt at Adel’s flat listening to French tapes (in preparation for Tunisia and Morocco), sketching diagrams of Islamic Cairo, walking leisurely through Islamic Cairo for the 4th time and cooking dinner with friends. It has been an incredibly lazy week.

Om Ali and Egyptian Dinner


Building codes in Cairo? What are building codes? Psh.

This time is great because it gives me time to reflect on my travels so far and plan for the next few weeks of my trip. I finally brought my ticket to Tunis and will be flying out of Cairo on Oct 25. I got in contact with my next host and am extremely excited to meet her and start exploring the fusion of Islamic culture and French colonial influence that is Tunisia. This will include bathing in a hammam, walking through the whitewashed villas with blue doors of Sidi Bou Said, following in the footsteps of Luke Skywalker and R2-D2 (and Ralph Fiennes in The English Patient) on sites such as Onk Jemal and Shubiel Gorge, shopping in the old medina of Sfax and Tunis, exploring the ruins of imperial Rome in Carthage and El Jem and stuffing my face with couscous. Too bad I don’t have more time – I think I’ve said this before but four months is not enough. I already have plans for my next long-term travel and I hope it will be for at least a year, if not longer.

View of Bab Zuewyla in the Background

Saturday, October 9, 2010

4W4D Welcome to Suburbia

Heliopolis (Masr al-Gadida), which translates to “New Cairo” is a northern suburb of Cairo that reminds me of any other mediocre apartment building/single home suburb found in the US. It is quite a change from the dirty cityscape, crowded streets, and satellite infested rooftops found in Cairo center, with its large almost picturesque boulevards, landscaped gardens and Art Deco villas.

New Cairo was created in response to Cairo’s population growth and to the exponential growth of the foreign community. It was created by a Belgian entrepreneur, Baron Edouard Empain, who also created the Paris Metro. Today, it is occupied by wealthy Egyptians and foreigners alike.

We visited my host’s mother in New Cairo and had a very delicious dinner which then sent me into a food coma. A girl from Toronto (Courtney, I thought of you!) who is traveling around the world for two years learning about farming and Beata, the polish girl who also came back to Cairo around the same time as me after traveling around Egypt was also at the dinner. It was another relaxing day and great to get away from the city for awhile, but I always feel more invigorated upon return. I feel more energetic when I am in the center of the action… I really do enjoy cities. Now I just need to find a city that has a balance of both.


a Cairo street during Ramadan 6pm

the same Cairo street after Ramadan/Eid 2pm

Just found some pictures I took when I got here - the streets of Cairo are constantly busy and I rarely see it not during the day. But after the Eid celebration, where people stay up all night to celebrate the ending of Ramadan, the day after is very quiet and silence- instead of horns pierce the air. I have not seen the streets of Cairo this quiet since then.

Friday, October 8, 2010

4W3D (mis)Adventures of Falafel the Camel #9

"Today, I got carded in Egypt. In EGYPT. The land of no rules and everything goes."

Just saying...