9W2D What is the Tunisian Identity?

Sunset in Carthage

I can’t believe how quickly time flies. I’ve been here in Tunis for about 2 and a half weeks and am at the halfway point of my entire trip and feel I have so much more to discover and learn. I met with a student who attends the Ecole Nationale d'Architecture de Tunis in Sidi Bou Said and we discussed true vernacular Djerba architecture, Asma is originally from Djerba so her knowledge of this area is very interesting and valuable. Next week I will begin my journey to the rest of Tunisia, with a stopover in Djerba to explore the island.

A walk through the Medina of Tunis

The architecture consists of very simple white walls with no decoration as compared to the architecture of the medina in Tunis, which is a little more elaborate with its colorful doors covered in black studded ornamentation against white walls. The Djerbans live a very simple life, with little or no possessions and this is reflected in the architecture.

I have realized a question that comes up frequently when looking at the conservation of heritage and identity of Tunisians in architecture is what exactly is the Tunisian identity? This question has always has always generated a lively and heated debate with every Tunisian I’ve spoken to. There is always a discussion about the government and system, history, race, language and faith. I briefly mentioned this in my last post. Since then I’ve gotten to talk to a musician and film maker whose work speaks about the social problems of Tunisia and with architects who discussed how one could solve these social problems using architecture.

Zitouna Mosque in Medina of Tunis

Tunisia has a long history and has somehow survived domination and imported identities such as Carthage, Rome, Byzantine Empire, Medieval Islam, Ottoman Empire, and European. Carthage was a diverse place that welcomed Greeks, Egyptians and Spaniards who co-existed peacefully together, that is until the Roman invasion. Even the Berbers came from outside of North Africa to this region. Add in the relations with other Muslims of various races and backgrounds at the beginning of the Islamic era and you get a vibrant and unique society that is not found elsewhere.

Examples of the diverse history include the flag, resembling that of Turkey, the Berber fish.palm symbols to protect people from the “evil eye”, the Andalusian fez, the Roman ruins, and the blue/white architectural combinations that was common in Andalusia and Greece.

It seems that being open to others and allowing women more freedom has always been a part of Tunisian history. In addition, Jews enjoyed a better life here than in other places such as Europe. The mentality of modern Tunisians seems to be very open but with a conservative twist. I’m not even sure if I could classify Tunisia as an Arab country. Tunisia is a Mediterranean culture. Many of the elder residents have told me the country, culture and society is moving backwards. When they were young, the city was diverse and vibrant with French, Tunisian, Italians and other European people. But now economically and socially it is lagging and has not improved over the years. All the money is put into the small downtown without regard for the surrounding areas. Architectural standards and codes are not followed and can be “changed” if you have money.

Another interesting note to mention is that the identity of the headscarf is not part of the Tunisian culture – it is an imported identity from Iran and other Middle Eastern countries. The people I’ve talked to believe the city can change with time and have a stronger identity. But because there isn’t an intelligent system in place right now that protects this identity, it is slowly degrading. A lot of people are not a fan of the current president, Ben Ali who has been ruling since 1987. Restrictions on press freedom is ongoing – and is seen through the banning of political films and internet sites being blocked. In 2006 Tunisia even closed its Qatar embassy to protest against an interview with an opposition leader on Al Jazeera television.